Whimsical wanderings
This is the second instalment of the “not a travel blog”. I want to start by making a couple of remarks about last week’s blog and if you haven’t read it, I’d say you can skip after reading this blog’s opening remarks. That said, last blog is a 3 minute read.
I really like Amsterdam. I’ve been a there a few times and enjoyed every time. It’s a great vibe and I have a really good impression of the Dutch people not just from my stays in Amsterdam but also from working closely with some Dutch people and can’t really fault them. I also like the fact that they have the red light district and the Bulldog coffeshops even though I never used the former and no longer do the wacky backy. I’m an advocate for legalising any drugs and prostitution. The former is not worse than alcohol and the latter not as bad as porn. I don’t advocate for the consumption of drugs or prostitution though, just like I don’t advocate for the consumption of alcohol and porn, but I believe no one is a criminal for consuming such things. All of these things I just mentioned, all of them, can and most often do, destroy peoples lives so I’d advise anyone to abstain from any of these things but I’d fight for their right to be able to do it if they so choose. All this is just to say how much I loved Bruges.
After writing last week’s blog, I had the chance to stop at one of Germany’s rest stops, which I hadn’t noticed until then. The use of the toilet was free; I didn’t need to pay, but the stench of piss made it feel like there was a cost.
I didn’t complain about the overpriced coffee, as I had the choice not to buy it. Dealing with a potential headache was an option I had. However, when it comes to a physiological necessity that can’t be avoided, being charged for it makes me itch, to say the least. Some may argue that eating and drinking water are similar necessities, but I’d beg to differ. Choosing not to eat until death is possible, although extreme. Choosing not to urinate is not. Being charged for tap water would itch just as much; to say the least.
So those are my remarks from last week’s blog. What you’re about to read are my thoughts on the places I have travel through on this trip from A to B. I have stayed 2 nights in each place so you’ll take some of my comments with a pinch of salt. I have made sure to visit some obligatory places and try some traditional food, everything else is just my thoughts about the vibe of the places as well as the beauty of it.
As I left Nuremberg for Austria, the difference struck me immediately. Despite sharing the same language, I could sense I was in a different country. How did I know? First, the diesel price. Thankfully, I found a petrol station with possibly the lowest prices in the country. The locals were friendly, and everything seemed reasonably priced by European standards. I grabbed a large coffee to-go for 2.30€ — nearly half the cost at German or Belgian petrol stations.
Hiking is my favorite leisure activity, so I ventured to Ried Im Innkreis for a hike. It’s not the Austrian Alps, but it’s worth exploring if you enjoy nature walks. Before I drove to Vienna I tried the Schnitzel and I’m so happy I did. The Portuguese do a version of it, and when it comes to food, the Portuguese know what they’re doing. But when it comes to the Schnitzel, the Austrian one wins.
I also love urban strolls and Vienna is a city walkers’ dream. The imperial ambiance is unparalleled; a city steeped in the Baroque style that permeates every corner. I managed to tick off my must-see list and left thinking it’s possibly the most stunning city I’ve visited, competing with other acclaimed European beauties.
Before leaving Austria, I realized that even with all I’d seen, a couple of essential activities were skipped. I bypassed the German Autobahn and missed the Vienna Opera. Next time, I’ll make sure to include these.
Though I initially said this isn’t a travel blog and wouldn’t provide tips, I’m changing that this week to offer a couple. The first, most crucial advice for anyone exploring places is to arrive early; just before sunrise if possible. You’ll have the place just for you and maybe a couple of other early risers but you will avoid the crowds and that’s in my opinion the best way to visit any place. The second tip is to use a parking app like Parkopedia. This app displays available parking spots, including free ones, a valuable tool for European road-trippers. I’ve managed to avoid parking fees throughout this whole trip; didn’t pay a cent. I didn’t always rely on the app, as I’m a “city boy” familiar with finding free spots, even in unfamiliar cities.
When I left Vienna, my next stop was Budapeste but because I wake up at 5AM I was able to get to Bratislava by 7am and spend the early morning there. My first impression of the city was meh. This was before I even got out of the car. I entered a Food Court open at 7:10 AM, looking for a restroom. I tried to get some help from 3 different people since I couldn’t find the toilets and none of the three could speak any english. Not only that, but two of them sounded really angry and annoyed that I even spoke to them. I ended up leaving without using the toilet after finding out the toilet was off limits as that area was closed off.
On my way up to the castle I was thinking that Slovaks are an angry people for some reason and have no english which is not normal in Europe. I confess I thought it must have been the Czechs. I didn’t get this vibe from the Czechs though. I got to the castle and 2 distinct things happened. One was the view of the city; breathtaking. Bratislava is a cool city, you can see it and feel it from the castle. The castle is obligatory visit. The second thing is that I realised that 2 of the three people I talked to; the angry ones; were cleaning ladies. I know that many cleaning ladies do speak english but it’s not just that they’re cleaning ladies but they were old enough as well. And whether we like it or not; and we shouldn’t like it; these people perform an essential job in our society and are not paid accordingly. I understand the reasons why but that doesn’t mean they will not be angry. Even the cleaning ladies that love what they do, will not be happy with the pay they get. They’re probably not angry in general but still. So I stopped for an overpriced coffee in Bratislava and quickly realised that english is very well spoken there just like any other european city. I didn’t eat, not because I always skip breakfast but because they didn’t have anything traditional, they had really nice breakfasts but the kind that I can get in any nice cafe.
The old town is gorgeous, the walk by the Danube is really pleasant and I bought in their town market, probably the best blueberries I have ever had. Blueberries are a staple for me, I eat them almost every day so this was a biggie for me. By 10:15AM I was leaving without trying any traditional Slovak food and that’s how it goes. I could have gone back to Slovakia really quick if I wanted to since I stayed 2 days in Esztergom which is basically a small bridge away from Slovakia. I didn’t go back though.
I booked a place in this town because I thought it was closer to Budapeste to be honest. I didn’t check how long it would take to get to the city centre. I learned it’s a 1hr drive away from the city centre. I wasn’t happy with my oversight until I got to the place. I’m very happy I didn’t realise it was 1hr away from Budapeste. I happily made that drive both ways first to go and enjoy Buda and Peste and then to go back to the town and bed.
I did think Vienna was the most beatiful city I have ever had the pleasure to visit, and then I got to Peste in Budapeste. I won’t pick winners on such short stays but that’s only because I visited Peste. On my first day I spent 2 hrs or so in Buda. On the second day I arrived at 7AM and left at 4PM and except for 2 coffee stops and a lunch stop I was always walking. I know that not everyone is able to do that but it does make a difference in how you experience the city. You can always take the subway or the bus but it’s not the same thing. You can also rent one of those electric scooters or even a bike but I don’t think it’s the same thing either. You won’t really appreciate the people, the arquitecture, the small things and how it can make you feel to walk those streets.
When it comes to food, I did eat in a nice place that a couple of hungarians I met the previous day suggested to me and I tried their goulash which was alright but then I tried something that I seemingly is a traditional hungarian dish and I just had to try it. Cock Testicles with Cockcombs. The dish was served with a side of very sour underripe green plums and the veridict is that the testicles were good but the cockcombs could only be eaten with the sour plums and I couldn’t finish the cockcombs.
In Budapeste I learned about pataphysics and I’m wondering how is it possible that I’m only learning about this now. I’m no art student but this is definitely something I should be aware of. It’s just absurd.
From Budapeste I drove to Belgrade having no idea what to expect. My first impression was worse than meh, it was more like, I didn’t know Belgrade had been at war recently. The number of buildings completely destroyed as if by war or severe fires was just too much to ignore. Are these buildings remnants from the break up of Yugoslavia? Hardly, right? I loved Belgrade. It’s a city of contrasts. Yes you have very old buildings and what can only be called as ruins, right in the middle of the city, but there are also really cool areas within the city and if you like city parks you will love it there. The cafe scene is probably the best I’ve seen. They’re trendy, cool, nice coffee, great vibe. I’m definitely going back.
My next stop is Bulgaria. After I cross the Serbian passport checking point and before I cross the Bulgarian passport checking point I paid 1€ to take a piss in stinking old toilet, so there’s that. I guess I can’t put it on any country as I was in no man’s land.
Sofia’s immediate impression accentuated the country’s financial strain. I didn’t feel this in Serbia. There’s obviously a huge difference between Serbia and the previous countries I had been to, but I didn’t feel like I was in a very poor country. In Bulgaria I got that feeling. Mainly from the people and the city’s buildings. But within 30 minutes I was in Kopitoto, the highest point in the Vitosha Mountain for a hike.
Sofia may not be as beautiful of a city as the ones I’ve passed through on this trip but it was the one where I ate the best food. I ate the best mushroom soup ever and believe I have eaten really good mushroom soups because both the Portuguese and the Irish make great mushroom soup. Their Shopska is delicious and a must have probably in every meal out. My experience was in a traditional bulgarian restaurant so I’d definitely recommend going for the real thing.
I’ll arrive at B tomorrow, where B stands for Bansko. This journey has been a blend of discoveries, reflections, and experiences across borders. Every place brings something distinct, and as my road trip nears its end, I’m eager to see what final destination will bring.
